ST PETERSBURG

 

st pete'sPalace SquareFrom 1703 to 1918, St Petersburg was the capital of the wealthiest Empire in the world - Tsarist Russia. During a period spent under the various names of "Petrograd" and "Leningrad" the city suffered deliberate neglect under Communism, and a 3-year bombardment and siege which left thousands dead and the city in tatters. A popular vote restored the old name in 1991, since when the city has slowly begun a return to its former glory.

souvenir market near the Church of the Spilt BloodHowever, it's all-too-easy to get "stuck" in C18-19th St Petersburg! Throughout the "soviet" period, Leningrad (as it was then) was the USSR's artistic enclave - far enough from Moscow to escape the dead hand of ideological burocrats, and on a more human scale than Moscow's towering Stalin-Baroque extravagances. Where Moscow is the mainstream, the avant-garde is in St Pete's - artists, film-makers, performance artists, and especially rock musicians, DJ's, and the entertainment business. From off-the-wall exhibitions in "underground" venues through to the wildest of dancefloor nightlife, St Petersburg is definitely not stuck in its own past! You haven't experience the "real" St Petersburg until a taxi-driver has read you some of his poetry....

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