
ST PETERSBURG
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From 1703 to 1918, St Petersburg was the capital of the wealthiest Empire in the world - Tsarist Russia. During a period spent under the various names of "Petrograd" and "Leningrad" the city suffered deliberate neglect under Communism, and a 3-year bombardment and siege which left thousands dead and the city in tatters. A popular vote restored the old name in 1991, since when the city has slowly begun a return to its former glory.
The Peter & Paul Fortress, the original city fortifications, houses both the Imperial Splendour of the Tombs of the Tsars, and the Imperial Horror of the cells of the former Maximum Security prison, where authors Maxim Gorky and Fyodor Dostoyevsky, and Lenin's brother were amongst the many unwilling guests.
However, it's all-too-easy to get "stuck" in C18-19th St Petersburg! Throughout the "soviet" period, Leningrad (as it was then) was the USSR's artistic enclave - far enough from Moscow to escape the dead hand of ideological burocrats, and on a more human scale than Moscow's towering Stalin-Baroque extravagances. Where Moscow is the mainstream, the avant-garde is in St Pete's - artists, film-makers, performance artists, and especially rock musicians, DJ's, and the entertainment business. From off-the-wall exhibitions in "underground" venues through to the wildest of dancefloor nightlife, St Petersburg is definitely not stuck in its own past! You haven't experience the "real" St Petersburg until a taxi-driver has read you some of his poetry....
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