Almaty

zenkov cathedral ALMATY is no longer the Kazak capital (the national administration and Government has been moved to the windswept city of Astana (formerly Akmola), newly rebuilt for the purpose). However, it remains the country’s main city for all other intents and purposes. This especially applies to transport. All international air travel is to/from Almaty (and not Astana), and the main rail network connections are via Almaty. Almaty is especially useful for travellers to China, as the Tien-Shan Railway runs through to Urumqi - the only scheduled surface transport from Central Asia into Western China.

Panfilov Park offers a few surprises - not least the beautiful Zenkov Cathedral. Every bit as "onion-domed" and impressive as those you will find in European Russia. this Orthodox church is being restored through funding from local businessmen. Nearby are the Martyr's Memorial (to the Kazak war dead of WW2) and the History Museum.

Almaty boasts the world’s largest (allegedly) outdoor ice-rink at Medeo - a short taxi-ride outside the city. Continue up the same road and you’ll find yourself in stunning “alpine” scenery in less than an hour. The local people are justifiably proud of their mountains, and regularly ski at the nearby Chimbulak resort in season.

For a different kind of view, you can take the cable-car from the city up to the observation tower on the hill overlooking Almaty. It’s not the most spectacular panorama, but in the evenings the restaurants at the top of the cable car offer a romantic view of the lights of the city - and (on a clear day) the surrounding mountains.

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