Trips and Tales (Part 16)
How did you enjoy the last couple of blog posts? Thought I’d give you something a little different, to keep you guessing and add a little spice. I loved the “360cities” locations in Russia. There’s just something about the chosen sites that speak of the individual that selected them: choices that would never be “official” and are all the better because of it. I still catch myself thinking about that haunting, boarded-up church in the middle of a corn field. Eerie.
Roads Less Travelled
So, after racing through a disrespectfully short selection of St Petersburg “must-sees”, it’s only right to include some interesting but less frequented places too. So I will:
Kotlin Island/Kronstadt
Located in the Gulf of Finland, Kotlin Island, its fortified town of Kronstadt and the numerous off-shore forts/sub-islands, are another direct link to the origins of St Petersburg. The whole assembly formed a giant military base, the home of the Russian Baltic fleet and a formidable defence against possible attacks routed through the Baltic Sea. These days military connections and landmarks abound, the town is open to civilians and the awe-inspiring semi-ruined off-shore forts and promontories are reachable by boat (and sometimes even by foot, although you really, really need to know what you are doing). Forget English Heritage, with it’s raincoat & wellingtons staff hanging around like store detectives, fencing things off for the site’s and your protection; here, if you row out solo to a deserted fort, fall down a derelict stairwell and break a leg, you’re on your own.
The Small Academy of Arts
A glorious mosaic (literally) of colour and design located between Ulitsa Tchaikovskogo and the Fontanka embankment. It’s an art academy for children that is itself an ongoing work of art. Sculpted 3D forms in various levels of relief blend into its external walls and surrounding courtyard, each decorated with brilliant mosaic tiles. Miniature angels, animalistic forms, stylised figures and patterns explode in a joyous, naïve style. Just great really.
The White Nights Festival
I considered this for the “On the Beaten Track” section, but seeing as it only occurs for 3 months of the year, it’s probably “Less Travelled”, relatively speaking. That’s my logic for including it here anyway… Between May and July each year, the sun never sets on St Petersburg, due to its northern location (of course, payback occurs during the middle of winter, with its 3 months of dark and gloom: the Black Nights). What better time than May-July, then, to have a sunlit festival of music and art? “The Stars of the White Nights Festival” features a 6-week programme of ballet, opera and classical music, which must surely be enough for anyone. There are carnivals, rock and jazz concerts too, and the “Scarlet Sails” celebration at the end of the school year. It takes place on the Neva and involves a veritable World War III of fireworks set to music. For those of an (even) more hedonistic nature, this is clubbing season, with revellers staggering around the street, in and out of clubs in full-on party-mode at all hours, brazen…and all in bright sunlight too. Madness.
Next time: Trips and Tales (Part 17)
More of St Petersburg’s roads less travelled.
[Photo by alexkon]